Growing potatoes is relatively simple but has a few specific requirements. These include at least six hours of daily sun, low humidity, and slightly acidic loose soil. Provide 1-2 inches of water a week with one or two thorough waterings (more for sandy soil). Consistent moisture is particularly important during and after the flowering process. You can reduce watering when the potatoes are near maturity. Also, tubers stop forming when soil temperatures exceed 80 degrees, so monitor this carefully.

Pests that feast on potato plants and leaves include aphids, cutworms, tuber moths and Colorado potato beetles. Watch for signs of them and use insecticides as needed. Blight, scab, potato leafroll virus and blackleg are common diseases.

Propagating “seed potatoes” indoors beginning 4-6 weeks before the final frost is common for varieties that have longer growing times. Put the seed potatoes in a light area at a temperature of 60-70 degrees for a week or two so they develop eyes. Then cut them into chunk with at least two eyes each; seed potatoes the size of a golf ball or smaller should be planted whole. Put the chunks in a tray for a few days to dry out.

Once the soil is dry enough from the winter to be easily workable, you can plant potatoes in the ground. Dig furrows six inches deep and place the seed chunks six inches apart with eyes out. Add about three inches of soil; you can backfill the rest as the potato plants grow. Container growing uses space more efficiently and lets you move the plants as needed. Use light-blocking containers that are at least 10 gallons and two feet deep.

Whenever spuds start to peak above the soil surface, mound soil around them, as sunlight exposure creates toxic green spots. Do the mounding in the morning since the plants rise during cooler nighttime weather.

Potatoes need a lot of food during the early growth stages. Along with mixing a lot of organic matter into the soil each spring, add side dressing fertilizer at four and six weeks. Lean toward formulas high in phosphorus and potassium as these encourage the tubers to grow. You can also improve the quality with micronutrients like calcium and magnesium. Nutrient deficiencies, along with too much or not enough water, can cause “hollow heart.” Do soil testing so you know what to provide.

Although most people grow potatoes as annual plants, proper winterization will let the remaining tubers self-propagate the following spring. Hill extra soil around the plants and add a thick layer of soil for insulation; frost cloths and blankets also provide warmth. Reduce watering and fertilization as the tubers don’t need much during this dormant period.

Pruning isn’t essential, but it helps focus resources on tuber development, and it improves air circulation for disease prevention. Cut side shoots and lower leaves away throughout the growing season, then trim back the foliage about three weeks before you expect to harvest. The latter helps the skin harden for better storage.

Potatoes take between 75-135 days to mature, depending on the variety. They are usually ready when the foliage starts to turn yellow and wither. Gently dig a few potatoes up with a trowel for spot checks before a full harvest.