These fragrant, gorgeous and hardy “herb shrubs” don’t require much to make a striking impact. Lots of sunlight and well-draining soil are the most important factors. Consider adding peat moss or sand to heavier soil. Water regularly during the first growing season when the roots are establishing, but avoid watering mature lavender unless you have an extended dry period. You also want good air circulation and low humidity levels.

Root rot and fungal diseases from excess water are the most common diseases. Also, look out for septoria leaf spot. The bigger concern is pests such as spider mites, leafhoppers, whiteflies and four-lined plant bugs. Use appropriate insecticides or natural methods like neem oil.

Starting lavender indoors is an extended process, but offers the best chance of success. Begin 10-12 weeks before the last expected spring frost. First, you need to cold-stratify the seeds. Wrap the seeds in a moist paper towel, then place the towel in a sealed plastic bag in the fridge for 3-6 weeks. From there, transfer the seeds to a tray with a seed-starting mix. Keep the soil moist and warm, and provide plenty of light. You can also sow the seeds directly in the starting mix, then refrigerate the tray for the stratification period.

When the spring frost threat is past, you can plant or transplant lavender into the ground, using the sunniest garden spot available. Early fall planting is an option in growing zones 8-11. Space seedlings and young plants 2-3 feet apart, digging a hole larger than the root ball and then backfilling with soil. For seed sowing, plant seeds two inches apart and an eighth-inch deep, then thin as needed.

Consider planting lavender in pots for indoor, balcony and other flexible growing solutions. Use containers that are 12-16 inches wide and deep. Succulent potting mix is excellent for drainage purposes; clay and terracotta pots further help with moisture levels.

Usually, the only fertilization necessary for lavender is to add some compost or aged manure to the soil when planting. Lavender does well in lean soil, and adding fertilizer often causes too much foliage, less flower production and a weaker flavor. For the poorest soils or container plants, consider a light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer early in the spring. Soil testing will tell you whether this feeding is necessary.

Although lavender tolerates many growing conditions, some winterization may be necessary in cooler climates. After the first fall frost, add a layer of mulch to insulate the roots. They will also need protection from the wind. Use row covers or plant near masonry and stone walls.

Pruning lavender annually will stimulate new growth, give it good shaping and prevent woodiness. Trim away old flower stalks in the early spring and/or in late summer after the plant fully blooms. Remove dead or damaged leaves, flowers and stalks as needed.

Harvest the flowers once the buds are colorful and starting to open; this will preserve the most fragrance when drying. Cut away small bunches just above the leaves and hang or store them in a dry, well-circulated area. If you are harvesting for the essential oils, do so just after the morning dew evaporates.