The only difference between red and green pepper care is how long you wait to harvest them. So stick to the basics: 6-8 hours of direct sunlight a day, daytime temperatures of 75-85 degrees, high humidity, loamy neutral soil and 1-2 inches of water a week. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses to provide consistent, deep watering. Water early in the day so leaves can dry out before nightfall. A stake will support the plants when they are heavy with fruit.

Pests mainly like to prey on weaker pepper plants. Watch for pepper weevils, aphids, flea beetles, hornworms and similar insects that ruin crops. Bell peppers are more likely to be affected by viruses, and excessive or overhead watering greatly increases the risk of fungal disease.

In northern regions, you may need to start red peppers indoors up to 12 weeks before the last spring frost to ensure they can fully mature. Plant seeds a quarter or half-inch deep in cell trays or other small containers. Use a seed-starting mix that you keep consistently moist. A heat mat will provide the 75-80 degree temperatures ideal for germination. The seeds will germinate in 2-3 weeks; at this point, move them to a sunny window or add grow lights. Gradually acclimate seedlings to outdoor conditions for about 10 days before transplanting.

Wait to plant or transplant red peppers outdoors until nighttime temperatures are about 60 degrees. Plants should be separated by 18 inches in rows that are 30-36 inches apart. Keep peppers well-separated from potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants so they don’t compete for nutrients or attract common pests. Bell peppers do well in raised beds and pots since the soil stays warmer than the ground. Use 5-10 gallon containers with good drainage for the best growth. They should be at least 12 inches deep to fit the root system.

Red peppers grow well when they are regularly fed, so mix some organic matter into the soil before planting, then fertilize every 4-6 weeks. A balanced NPK ratio is a safe solution. If you want an edge, use a high-nitrogen fertilizer early for leafy growth, then switch to high potassium and phosphorus midseason to support fruiting. Soil testing provides the information you need for fertilizer scheduling and working in micronutrients like iron, calcium and magnesium.

Red bell peppers can give you several years of fruit with proper winterization. For warmer summer regions, you may be able to overwinter outside with a combination of heavy mulching and frost cloths for heat insulation. Reduce watering and fertilization during this period. In colder growing zones, carefully remove the plants from the ground and transplant them to a large indoor container.

Light pruning is all it takes to maximize red pepper yields. Using a hand pruner, remove damaged leaves and cut any branches at the base that don’t have any fruit or buds. This leaves more energy to develop existing fruit.

It takes 60-90 days for bell peppers to mature to their initial green color. You can pick them then or wait 2-3 weeks for them to turn red and sweeten. Carefully cut each pepper from the stem using sterile scissors or shears.