Enjoying strawberry fields forever starts with caring for your plants. In most cases, plants need 6-8 hours of direct sun. For hot climates, though, you may want to plant or position strawberries so they’re shaded in the afternoon to prevent burning. New strawberry plants should be watered regularly so the soil is moist but not soggy. After the plants are established, water them deeply whenever the top inch of the soil is dry.

Adding mulch around the base of your plants will help with moisture retention and keeping weeds away. The main pests to watch for are birds and slugs. Nets or row covers block birds while sand and pine needles are good slug deterrents.

Like many other backyard fruits, strawberry seeds need prolonged cold exposure before they can germinate; this process is called stratification. Put the seeds in a sealed plastic bag with damp tissues or paper towels. This goes in the refrigerator for 2-4 weeks. From there, sprinkle the seeds on a flat tray filled with seed starting mix and gently press them down. Provide sunlight or grow lights, maintain a temperature of 65-75 degrees and keep soil moist using a fine spray bottle or mister. It can take seeds between 7 and 42 days to germinate.

Northern gardeners should plant strawberry seedlings in the spring after the threat of frost is gone. Container strawberries can be transplanted in the late summer. For warmer regions, planting in the fall is acceptable, especially if you want a winter crop. When planting seedlings, the crown should be just above the soil line. Strawberry plants have shallow roots, so use containers that are 8-10 inches deep or the lower levels of a raised garden bed.

Your plants will grow best in well-drained, slightly acidic soil with a balanced fertilizer or one that’s high in potassium. Apply fertilizer to ground-based strawberries once new spring growth begins and again after the harvest to help develop buds for the following season. Container plants may need fertilization every 1-2 weeks since they are more likely to use up the soil nutrients; foliar sprays also work better for these strawberries. Natural fertilizer options include compost, fish meal, alfalfa meal and leaf humus.

Don’t do any winterization until daytime temperatures regularly drop into the 20s. Waiting lets the plants get used to the cold and “harden off” for dormancy. When it’s time to winterize, add a 3-5 inch layer of mulch to ground-based strawberries (6-8 for raised beds). Container plants can be buried in the ground or moved to an unheated indoor area. Remove the mulch when spring arrives.

Pruning improves total growth and quality while maintaining a good plant shape. In the spring, remove any damaged leaves or runners. Continue to pluck bad leaves as needed during the season, then do another pruning in the fall. Also, pick the blossoms off during the plant’s first year. This will spur stronger and healthier root development, leading to bigger future harvests.

The berries are ready for harvesting when they are fully red. Pinch or cut them off the plant, leaving about a quarter-inch stem on the fruit. Pick during the coolest parts of the day to reduce the chances of bruising. Fresh strawberries will keep in the fridge for 3-4 days.