If you want giant watermelons, you need to care for them well. It starts with well-drained soil and 6-8 hours of sunlight a day; this light helps the sugars develop. Watermelons typically need about an inch of water per week but may require more in hot climates. Adding mulch helps retain moisture and keeps the fruit from touching the soil so it’s less likely to rot.

Be wary of cutworms, spider mites, aphids, squash bugs and other pests that love watermelon. The melons are also susceptible to fungal diseases like anthracnose and fusarium wilt. Act at the first sign of problems to prevent further damage or crop death.

Seeds are usually directly ground-planted, but if you live in an area with a short growing season, you may want an early start. Begin indoor sowing about four weeks before the final expected spring frost. Plant the seeds one inch deep in plug trays or 2-3 inch pots with a rich seed-starting mix. Store them in a well-light area at temperatures between 80-90 degrees — a heat mat may be necessary — and gently water enough to keep the soil moist. The seedlings will be ready for transplanting when they have three or four sets of leaves.

Watermelon seeds and seedlings can be planted in the ground when soil temperatures reach 65-70 degrees. For seeds, create mounds about one foot tall by two feet wide and plant 4-6 seeds. After the seedlings get started, leave the 2-3 strongest plants and discard the rest. The plants like to vine and sprawl, so give them plenty of space. For container planting, use pots that are at least five gallons and choose the most compact watermelon variety you can find.

Watermelons need regular fertilization to satisfy their big appetites. Add a balanced fertilizer or compost to the soil during the initial planting/transplanting. From there, fertilize every six weeks with granular or two weeks with liquid solutions. Use a high-nitrogen fertilizer early for vine growth; a balanced fertilizer midseason for overall growth; and high potassium and phosphorus during flowering for better fruit development.

A watermelon is an annual plant and cannot survive winter frost. If a watermelon happens to grow the following year of its own accord, it’s because of self-seeding. That said, in some colder areas, you may need winterization practices to protect late-season fruits from being ruined by an early frost. This involves adding extra mulch to the ground to warm the roots and using a frost cloth or plant cover to shield the fruits and vines.

Pruning isn’t a necessity, but doing it can lead to healthier, larger melons. It also helps manage the plant size in smaller areas. By removing diseased leaves, side shoots or rotting fruits, you can get more nutrients to the main vines. Don’t prune wet plants as this invites disease.

Regardless of its size, a watermelon is ready when it has dull skin, brown tendrils by the stem and a yellow “field spot” where it was resting on the ground. Ripe watermelons also sound hollow when you tap them. Remove the watermelon from the vine using sharp shears or a knife — and wear gloves for hand protection. Cool, dry storage will help an uncut watermelon last up to three weeks.