As long as you get the details right, green peas will blossom without much hands-on care. The big things are sun, moisture and support. Green peas do best with 8-10 hours of direct sun a day, though you can get away with less in warmer areas. Temperatures of 60-70 degrees are optimal; most varieties stop growing when the thermometer exceeds 85 degrees. Water them enough to keep the well-draining soil moist. Vining peas need a trellis to climb whereas bush peas will do fine without. Check which variety you have before planting.

The most dangerous insects are aphids, pea weevils and cutworms. Watch for signs and use insecticides or companion plants. If your peas appear to have a fungal disease like powdery mildew, destroy the affected plant(s) to keep it from spreading.

Starting peas indoors isn’t necessary, but you can do so 2-3 weeks before the final spring frost if you want an early harvest. Soak the seeds in water overnight first to soften the shells. Use small pots or cell trays and plant 1-2 seeds per cell one inch deep in pre-moistened seed starter mix. Keep the soil moist, maintain temperatures of 55-70 degrees and provide plenty of light; use grow lights if necessary. When the seedlings reach about two inches tall, thin them to one per pot or cell.

Green pea seeds have excellent cold tolerance and can be planted outdoors 4-6 weeks before the final spring frost. Transplants can be done once the final frost has passed. They should be planted in a spot where peas haven’t been grown in at least 3-4 years, since pests and diseases tend to stick around. Another great option is container planting. Pots should be at least a foot deep and wide to let roots develop. Use well-draining potting soil or a mix of garden soil and compost.

For many growers, the only fertilization green peas need is mixing some compost or rotted manure into the soil when planting. If you’re growing them in containers or have poor soil quality, add a light amount of balanced or low-nitrogen fertilizer 2-3 weeks after planting, then again another 4-6 weeks later. (As legumes, peas make their own nitrogen.) Test the soil to determine nutrient needs. Brown tips and a drop in flowering are signs of over-fertilization, which weakens the plants.

Since green peas are an annual plant, you do not need to winterize them; just pull the plants from the ground when you’re done harvesting. In warmer regions, you can continue growing peas throughout the winter as a protective cover crop, planting them anywhere from mid-August to mid-October. The only major care change is adding mulch to retain heat in the soil.

Pruning green peas is not required, but you can pinch them back to maximize yields. When a pea plant reaches 12-14 inches tall, cut off the top 4-6 inches. This will spur the plant to develop more branches, stems and shoots.

Peas are ready to start harvesting after about two months. The pods should be uniformly green, have a shiny finish and peas that are slightly larger than the seeds. Twist them gently off the vine and eat them fresh within three days.