Yellow pepper care is virtually identical to other bell pepper varieties. The plants like warm temperatures, lots of direct sunlight and 1-2 inches of water per week. Drip irrigation and soaker hoses provide deep watering without getting the leaves wet. Use well-draining, balanced-pH soil and consider mulch for moisture management. When the plants start to get heavy with fruits, add a stake to keep them upright.

Fungal, viral and bacterial diseases are the primary threats to yellow peppers. Diseases are difficult to treat once they develop, so you should focus on preventative practices like cleaning your garden, good companion planting, proper watering and crop rotation. The pests you should be most concerned with are aphids, pepper weevils, hornworms and flea beetles.

Growers in colder regions should start yellow peppers indoors up to 10 weeks before the final spring frost to ensure a full maturation season. Fill sterile trays, flats or individual pots with seed-starting mix and sow the seeds a quarter-inch deep. Maintain moist soil at temperatures of 75-80 degrees, using a heat mat if necessary, and provide 12 hours of daily sunlight and/or grow lights. When true leaves appear, thin the seedlings to roughly three inches apart.

Wait until the threat of frost has passed before planting yellow peppers outside. This is typically between mid-April and mid-May. Seeds and seedlings should be 18-24 inches apart, and rows should have 30-36 inches of spacing. Do not plant them in an area where you grew peppers or other nightshade plants (tomatoes, eggplants, potatoes, etc.) the previous year.

Yellow bell peppers do well in containers. Select a ceramic or plastic pot that is at least 12 inches across and has good drainage, filling it with rich potting soil. These plants also are great for raised beds.

Scheduled fertilization every 2-3 weeks will satisfy yellow peppers’ big appetites. Use a 1-2-2 ratio fertilizer at initial planting and in the early stages to help bud and fruit development. After the plants start to flower, switch to a 1-1-1 ratio. The best organic fertilizers for yellow peppers are compost and liquid fish emulsions. Do regular soil testing and watch for signs of nutrient deficiencies. For example, yellowing between the leaf veins indicates low magnesium levels.

Bell peppers can be grown in-ground as a perennial plant in milder climates or by bringing container plants indoors. Overwintering involves harvesting the remaining peppers and pruning the plants to a Y-shape for dormancy. Water them every 3-4 weeks, stop fertilization and add extra mulch or coverings such as frost blankets. When spring arrives, gradually build up the watering frequency, light exposure and fertilizer.

Other than for winterization, you do not need to prune yellow peppers. That said, you can maximize yields by removing branches without fruit or buds, which directs resources to the more productive branches. Cut them at the base with a sharp, sterile tool.

Peppers take 60-80 days to mature with a green color, then another 14-28 days to turn yellow. You can harvest fruits whenever they feel firm and reach full size. Gently cut them away with a pruner or shears, leaving about an inch of stem on the fruit. The peppers can be kept for up to two weeks in the refrigerator.