"Elephant ear" is one of the oldest cultivated plants, in part because it’s an easy plant to care for. Although it thrives on high heat and humidity, taro prefers indirect/filtered sun or partial shade. Give the plants as much water as possible, especially during dry summer periods. They like moist-to-wet soil, and can even handle up to six inches of standing water, though this will increase the risk of fungal disease.

Taro is very pest and disease-resistant, but you should still watch carefully for issues. Potential infestations include aphids, spider mites, thrips and whiteflies. Good air circulation will combat fungal issues; also, keep the growing area clean and remove any weeds promptly.

Like potatoes, propagating from tuber/corm cuttings is the best way to grow new taro plants. In cooler regions, you can start taro indoors 6-8 weeks before the final spring frost. Slice the corm into chunks with at least one growth eye each. Let the cuttings dry for a week before planting in a tray with good drainage and a quality seed-starting mix. Plant them four inches deep with the pointy end facing up. Keep the soil between 65-85 degrees, water when the top two inches of soil are dry and provide 12-14 hours of indirect sunlight or grow lights a day.

Wait to plant or transplant the taro until the ground soil temperature is at least 70 degrees. Smaller varieties should be about two feet apart while larger taro plants need four feet of space. Taro is an excellent border plant around structures or backyard ponds. Plant in a sheltered area to prevent string winds from damaging the delicate leaves. Taro is toxic to pets and horses, so add fencing or other barriers.

Another option is to grow taro in containers as a year-round house or patio plant. Use large pots with well-draining, multi-purpose potting soil. Container taro needs more frequent watering, and you’ll need to re-pot individual tubers at least once a year.

Taro needs a steady nutrient supply to grow. Generously apply fertilizer every 2-3 weeks as a side dressing or water-soluble spray. Use balanced fertilizer for overall growth, high-nitrogen fertilizer to emphasize leaf growth and high-phosphorus fertilizer to focus on root growth. It’s nearly impossible to overfertilize taro; the more food you provide, the bigger it gets.

Taro goes dormant during the winter and can be grown year-round in warmer regions. Reduce watering, and if nighttime temperatures get cool, use mulch and/or frost blankets for insulation. Frost is very damaging, so in cooler areas, dig up any remaining ground tubers in the fall and store them in a cool area with good air circulation. Bring container-based taro indoors until spring.

The only necessary pruning for taro is to remove discolored, dead or diseased leaves. This will encourage healthy new growth. You may also consider cutting the leaves back to prepare for winter dormancy; do so about two inches above the soil line.

Taro leaves can be harvested year-round. Cleanly cut the larger leaves with sterile, sharp scissors or shears. The corms are ready to harvest when the leaves begin shrinking back from their peak size. Loosen the soil using a garden fork, gently dig the tubers up and store them in a cool place.